I jut built a 45 deg, 12' x 12' "quarantine" wall. It has 342 t-nuts. Currently, 75 of those holds are this steep set from Atomik. About 150 more holds are from other Atomik sets, plus more from two other manufactures. The 75 steep wall package is the core of my collection.
These are basic the shapes: mid-sized slopers, pinches, finger buckets, crimps and multi-directional foot knob. They are not super nuanced shapes that a comp setter might use where each hold forces the climber to grab it one intended way. While the complex shapes are great for route setters with thousands of holds in their inventory, the 75 basic holds are best for a spray wall. In a spray wall, each hold has to serve multiple purposes. One minute it might be a left hand throw; the next minute the same hold might be a right hand gaston. Specific shaped hols force specific/limited moves. Having a lot of basic shapes allows for unless variation.
I typically project around V6. At 45 degrees, none of these holds are impossible to hold. A another friend also built a 45 home wall during quarantine. He ordered a different bulk package that, at 45 deg, resulted in too many impossible to hold slopers. He now has a bunch of really expensive footholds. I have not had that problem with this set.
At 45 deg, don't expect V1 or much V2. Placed closely together, expect a lot of V3 - V4 options. Place the holds further apart and the sky is the limit. For more variety, I have added other holds, especially (1) sloping crimps, (2) XL slopers, (3) feet that can be used only from a specific direction, and (4) pockets, to supplement the 75 steep set.
5/29/2020 8:39 PM
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