5 Small Golfus Crimps Set #1

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$34.90

The most incut and positive of all 4 sets.

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Overview
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For the athlete that is climbing in the V5 range, this is a set of crimps that you can run laps on when set on a 20-degree wall. They are easier than Set #2. There is a slight difference between Set #1 and #2 in that Set #1 is a little deeper at 1/2" and there is a 25-degree incut. You can expect V1- on a 20-degree wall.

On a vertical wall, anything more positive than this set would be considered an edge. This is an excellent set to throw on any beginner wall where the climbers intend to put in the time to become stronger. The incut is comfortable on vertical while they become even more comfortable as the wall gets steeper.

On a 45-degree wall, the incut is now sloping by 20-degrees. The difficulty feels in the V8+ range. The lip on the crimps is still present on a 45-degree wall which is helpful to stay on.

The next step in easier crimps would be the Golfus Steep Wall Crimps.

Set #1 is easier than Set #2, Set #3, and Set #4.

On a vertical wall, expect V0+ feeling crimps.

On a 20-degree wall, expect V1- feeling crimps.

On a 45-degree wall, expect V8+ feeling crimps.

SIZE: 4" wide x 2-1/2" tall x 1" off the wall
V0+ on vertical.
V1- on a 20-degree wall.
V8+ on a 45-degree wall.
Texture: The texture is silky, grippy, and skin-friendly that feels like natural rock.

Great training crimp

These mimick the small crimp holds I find in the wild outdoor climbing in AZ. They are just at my limit on the 35° wall and I'm projecting outdoor V5. I can only use them with steep wall feet on the wall. Harder feet and scrunched up the difficulty quickly amplifies. Texture is great, bout like 110/220 grit sandpaper. Very bombproof build quality. Would buy again.

Date: 3/14/2022 8:35 PM

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V4/5 on 35 degree wall

The differences in positivity on the various series of small Golfus crimps are visually subtle, but they feel markedly different on the wall. Series #1 feels like a V4/5 hold to me on a 35 degree wall. The shape is like the baby sibling of the medium Golfus edges steep wall holds, offering a nice progression in difficulty from that series. I find that these holds have me wavering between a 3 finger drag and a 4 finger half crimp on steep terrain. Each hold has a thumb dimple on the surface opposite the crimp. The dimples feel directional on different holds, i.e. some holds feel a bit more tailored for right or left hand. This can factor into where I choose to place them in a route, but all holds can be used by either hand comfortably.

Date: 10/10/2021 2:50 AM

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Great trainers for finger strength.

These holds are quite comfortable, though when you have to bear down on them they can feel a little crowded on the finger space. I was really psyched on the technical route and boulder problems you can make with them on a home wall. I wouldn't expect to be able to do a lot of dynamic movement on these if you aren't training double digit boulders but for static and precision movement they are amazing. However, after you kick the board to 35 degree overhang it gets significantly tougher. The crimps still have some edge to them, but you won't be able to set anything easier than V6. At 45 degree don't expect anything easier than V8.

Date: 7/21/2021 1:10 PM

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On a 45-degree wall, the incut is now sloping by 20-degrees. The difficulty feels in the V8+ range. The lip on the crimps is still present on a 45-degree wall which is helpful to stay on.

The next step in easier crimps would be the Golfus Steep Wall Crimps.

Set #1 is easier than Set #2, Set #3, and Set #4.

On a vertical wall, expect V0+ feeling crimps.

On a 20-degree wall, expect V1- feeling crimps.

On a 45-degree wall, expect V8+ feeling crimps.

SIZE: 4" wide x 2-1/2" tall x 1" off the wall
V0+ on vertical.
V1- on a 20-degree wall.
V8+ on a 45-degree wall.
Texture: The texture is silky, grippy, and skin-friendly that feels like natural rock.

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