The 3/8-16 4-prong stainless steel T-nut is the choice for wet conditions like you might see on an outdoor wall. If installed and seated correctly, they work great. 1426 pounds of force is required to pull the t-nut through a 3/4" ACX plywood panel.
Below is a Pro/Cons list.
- Stainless steel does not rust.
- Price. The cost 5 times what the zinc version costs.
- There is a risk of hammering them in crooked.
- When not hammered in enough, they can pop off the back. It would be best if you did not glue the T-nut to your panel. Spend time and install the T-nuts correctly. See below for installation.
- This model is less forgiving when you cross-thread a bolt in it. If the T-nut is not seated correctly, you can cross-thread the T-nut. You can push the T-nut off the back of the wall or even break the prongs on the t-nut. The advice here is always hand thread the first, bolt to the T-nut introduction, and then use a T-Bar Wrench with medium or large hold and tighten down enough so that the T-nut gets pulled into the wall. The result is a properly seated t-nut.
- Expert Tip: We seat every T-nut when the panel is on the ground. We use a large hold that has 1" or more of material behind the washer inside the climbing hold. We hand thread the bolt until we are satisfied we have achieved a proper bolt to T-nut threading. We then take an impact driver with a 5/16" Hex Driver Bit and run the driver mechanism with enough clicks/bursts to seat the T-nut. If you hear the clicks/bursts from the impact driver for more than one second, about 5 to 10 clicks, you are most likely overdriving. It's doesn't take much to seat a T-nut using this method.
Click here to read about HOW TO INSTALL 4-PRONG T-NUTS.
Click here to read about Zinc versus Stainless Steel.
- 4-prong T-nut
- 304 stainless steel.
- Barrel height is 7/16" tall.
- Base flange measure 1".