We've designed this bad boy to offer more hand positions than we want to count. While shaping, we kept the beginner and intermediate level climber's needs to mind. We stayed away from everything crimpy so you could do entire sessions open handed. Work the muscles, not the tendons. Leave the tendon crimp training for now. Better to train more than to get injured doing repetitions on crimpy holds.
Below we've listed what options are on the hold.
Outside of Hold (going in a clockwise pattern)
-Jug with huge thumb catch (12 o'clock position)
-Open handed crimp (2 o'clock position)
-Slopey ledge (3 o'clock position)
-Sloper with lip (5 o'clock position)
-Full hand open handed sloper crimp. Almost a jug but not quite. (6 o'clock position)
-3 finger sloper with a lip (8 o'clock position)
-4 finger Sloper (9 o'clock position)
-3 finger open handed crimp (11 o'clock position)
Keep in mind, these all become Gastons or side pulls if you want them to be.
Inside of Hold (going in a clockwise pattern)
Jug on the outside of the tile is at the 12 o'clock position
-2 finger pocket straight back. There's no real incut. (bottom right )
-2 finger pocket that drops down with enough room to get a full pad all the way to the back of the hold. Very positive. (Bottom left)
-2 finger sloper pocket. It's not really a sloper but it feels like it.
-Definitely a sloper 2 finger pocket.
-In the middle, a 2 x 4 pinch. It measures 1 9/16". It is 1/16" larger than a 2 x 4
-4 finger open handed slopey ledge and/or throw a thumb catch to let you pinch the ledge.
-With your fingers on the outside of the tile and your thumb on the inside, you'll get a pinch that is smooth on the outside and a rounded thumb catch on the inside. This is a wicked fun part of the hold. I like using the outside pinches the most because it allows me to do endurance and threshold pinch workouts on them.
More details to come.
