Frequently Asked Questions
Atomik's website offers lots of free info but just because it's here, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'm here to help. If you get our voice mail during business hours, it's only because I am on the phone with another client or in our facility. Please leave a message and I will return your call today. You can also ask your question via our Contact Us page.
Though the below FAQs are educational, for more descriptive instructions on building and how to information for climbing walls, please follow this link to our How To Build A Wall page
Kenny Matys President - Atomik Climbing Holds email@example.com 801-404-0280
Table of Contents
Click the blue links below and you will be forwarded to that specific question.
1. What length of bolts should I choose?
2. How many t-nuts should I get?
3. What size holes do I drill for the t-nuts?
1. When will my order arrive?
2. What about back orders?
3. Is the hardware included?
4. What are Atomik's climbing holds made out of and how does it compare to other products?
5. Can I order using a Purchase Order?
1. How many climbing holds should I get?
2. What is the difference between a bolt on hold and a screw on hold?
3. Are the holds guaranteed?
4. What is the texture like?
5. Are bolt ons better than screw ons?
6. What color of holds should I buy?
1. What pattern should I use for the t-nuts?
2. Are the holds weather resistant?
3. Can I mount climbing holds on drywall?
4. Can I attach plywood directly to a concrete wall?
5. What should I build my wall out of?
6. How to build a System Wall.
7. How to build a Hang Board.
It's a trick question! You don't choose the bolt length on our website. You are choosing the wall surface thickness. The 3/4, 1" and 1.5 inch options are telling us the thickness of your climbing wall surface. 3/4" for plywood, 1" for Trex and/or 5/4 board and finally 1.5" for walls that are faced with 2x6, 2x8 or 2x10 boards.
4.What are Atomik's climbing holds made out of and how does it compare to other products?
Atomik uses a polyurethane resin. We use this resin because it offers an outstandingly strong product and it allows us to be environmentally responsible. Polyurethane does not typically emit significant amounts of either EPA-listed VOCs or "semi-VOCs."
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) refers to organic chemical compounds which have significant vapor pressures and which can affect the environment and our employees health. Polyester resin does not afford us these benefits. It is weaker and gives off very high VOCs.
Earth tones off a more mellow, outdoor feel to your wall.
Fluorescent tones certainly make a statement.
Staggered is best. That means if you stand your 4 x 8 sheet tall and measuring from the top left to the right, the first t-nut is 2 inches in and 4 inches down. You should have 6 t-nuts on that first row measuring to the right, spaced 8 inches apart with the last t-nut 6 inches from the right edge. The second row is 6 inches in and 12 inches down. This row will also have 6 t-nuts in the row and 8 inches apart. The last t-nuts will end up 2 inches from the right edge of the panel. Click here for an image and details T-nut Layout
Indoors our outdoors, Atomik holds stand the time of time. Mother Nature does have a nasty child called UV rays and that will fade all holds over time. Yes we can UV coat them but to be honest, all that does is slow the fading down. In our opinion, it's not worth charging you the extra money for the coating.
No, no, no. Drywall is not structural. Please do not think you can " hit the studs in the wall" and be safe. It is not.
You have 2 options.
Option #1 is lay the sheets of 3/4 inch plywood directly against the drywall and attach it to the studs. We recommend only using screw on climbing holds for this method of attaching the plywood.
Option #2 is to lay 2 x 4s flat against the wall attaching them through the drywall and into the wall studs with at least 1 inch of thread from the screw you are using. The math is, 3/4 plywood + 1.5 inches ( 2 x 4 actually measures 1.5" x 3.5" ) + 1/2 drywall + 1 inch of addition thread = 3.75 inch long screw. Option #2 allows a bolt on or screw on hold to be used. The extra 1.5 inches that the 2 x 4 offers allows a bolt to pass through the hold, through the panel and t-nut and then into the space you created. Many think, "well why not just get exact bolt lengths?" In a perfect world, yes but the amount of thread that comes out the back of each hold varies.
Yes you can but you need to " fur out " the plywood using furring strips. We recommend to lay 2 x 4s flat against the wall attaching with Tapcons or wedge bolts. The extra 1.5 inches that the 2 x 4 offers, allows a bolt to pass through the hold, through the panel and t-nut and then into the space you created so that the bolt does not push the panel away from the wall. Many think, "well why not just get exact bolt lengths?" In a perfect world, yes but the amount of thread that comes out the back of each hold varies. DONOTLAYASHEETOFPLYWOODFLATAGAINSTACONCRETEWALLWITHOUTFURRINGSTRIPS!
3/4 inch Plywood and 3/4 inch OSB are strong, durable and longstanding, so you don't have to be concerned about the performance comparison in that area. And, as with any wood product, you need to make sure to select the proper grade. ACX in plywood is the fancy term for one side is good. OSB is relatively the same on both sides. The commercial gyms that look like real rock often use OSB because it gets covered with a stucco-like covering.
It will not rot or deteriorate due to harsh weather or insects. Trex is splinter-free and has excellent traction, even when wet. It contains no toxic chemicals or preservatives. Trex resists damage from moisture and sunlight, making it the natural choice for pools, hot tubs and spas. Trex is available in a wide range of colors and finishes to suit any style.
Pressure Treated Lumber:
Pressure treated lumber is a good choice for standing up to Mother Nature. It does have a bad reputation with people who hear " chemically infused wood" and say "shame on you" when we even mention it. Until 2003, the preservative most commonly used in residential pressure-treated lumber was chromated copper arsenate (CCA). It is an extremely toxic chemical for humans. However, one must distinguish between the toxicity of the chemical and the toxicity of the wood product in everyday use. The facts are that your local home store or lumberyard is now selling lumber treated with less toxic alternatives... amine copper quat (ACQ) and copper azole (CA)... though you may find other chemical combinations in specific areas. The reason these new copper-based alternatives are considered safer than arsenic-based preservatives is based on the human body's inability to absorb these poisons. To sum it all up, the pressure treated wood you get locally isn't as bad as people make it out to be. It's a great product. When I handle it, I wear gloves, a face mask when cutting it and I wash my hands once I have finished handling it. PT comes in plywood, 1 x 6 (aka 5/4 board ), 2x6, 2x8.
I'm not a big fan of plywood outside. The edges are untreated so when even a little water gets on it, delamination and bloating happens. Using pressure treated plywood is the best choice if you are adamant about using plywood. I recommend drilling the panels, priming the wood and then painting it. I am a little crazy and I might even spray inside the holes ( no t-nuts installed at this point ).
Cedar is incredibly resistant to rot and insects just don't like cedar. Its bacterial and fungal resistance coupled with the fact that Cedar is 80% the strength of Oak, makes it a desirable wood to use for building. Cedar is a lightweight and dimensionally stable wood that lies flat and stays straight, which means it resists the natural tendency to crack and check as you might find in many other wood species. I personally have never worked with cedar in a climbing environment but it does have a compelling sales pitch. Keep in mind that it has to be 3/4 or thicker in order to accommodate the length of the t-nut shaft.
2. Cut your plywood to the size you want. We recommend 12 inches tall. 12" gives you enough room for 2 rows of holds. Mine is 24" tall and I don't even put holds in the top section. You are pretty far off the ground at the top of a 24" tall board.
3. Using leftover 3/4 plywood, cut 5 furring strips that are 1.5 inches wide. and at least the width of your desired width. Cut to size the left and right side furring strips. Attach to the back of the panel using glue and finishing nails. Now add 3 horizontal strips that fit in between the left and right sides. One on the top, one in the middle and one on the bottom. Now you have at least 3 places per stud to screw in to. Drill 7/16 holes into the panel 4 inches apart laid out in a staggered pattern. Be sure to miss your furring strips.
4. Leave the panel raw at this point or finish it. See How to Build A Wall on how to do this.
5. Hammer t-nuts into the holes on the back side of the panel.
6. Find out where your studs are over your door frame and mark them. Mark your plywood where it will line up with the studs and pre-drill 3 pilot holes through the furring strips for each stud. Top, middle and bottom.
7. Attach board into studs using #8 x 3" wood screws for an interior application or 3" concrete screws to attach to a concrete wall.